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24 hours in Edinburgh Justine Vaisutis spent 24 hours in Edinburgh and discovered that the Scottish capital is a city brimming with historic beauty and contemporary culture |
| Edinburgh’s heart is compact in size but it brims with history, culture and cosmopolitan style.With so much to see and soak up in 24 hours, I began my day early, heading to the Old Town where a jigsaw of Medieval streets and lanes twist their way around the majestic Royal Mile. Climbing this cobblestoned boulevard from the bottom, I passed many of Edinburgh’s historical gems scattered amid shops, pubs and cafes. |
St Giles’ Cathedral has watched over the city since the 15th century
Our Dynamic Earth is one of Edinburgh’s must-see attractions
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Morning glory I climbed past the turreted Canongate Tollbooth, where taxes were collected in the 16th century, and along to St Giles’ Cathedral, whose imposing walls have watched over the city since the 15th century. Next I passed the 18th century City Chambers, the current home of the City Council, beneath which lie the preserved streets of Mary King’s Close. This underground warren of streets was enclosed during the 17th century to stem the devastation of the plague. Now it offers a spooky and fascinating insight into Edinburgh’s life several centuries ago. I detoured down George IV Bridge for a cheap breakfast with a view at the Elephant House Café. From my seat in the café, the magical sight of the castle’s sheer walls blending into a towering rugged cliff soon spurred me to continue my climb. My reward lay at the summit in the chapels, museums and vaults, and the jaw-dropping vistas to be enjoyed from the expansive grounds of Edinburgh Castle. I had a full schedule ahead of me so I headed back down the Royal Mile to stately Holyrood Palace, where the Royal Family stay when they are in town. Close by, Our Dynamic Earth, a museum celebrating the history of planet earth, captivates visitors with hi-tech displays of the natural world. Beyond the museum the exquisite Holyrood Park stretches its hills, lakes and valleys to the base of Arthur’s Seat, part of the extinct volcano system on which the city is built. From here, I watched people slowly trekking up Edinburgh’s domineering hill like specks in the distance and imagined the views from the top. But I was saving myself for views from a different vantage point. I crossed Regent Road and passed the stately Georgian houses lining Regent Terrace to make my ascent of Calton Hill. After ambling through the unfinished, Grecian-style columns of the National Monument on the hill’s peak, I took in the incredible 360-degree views of Edinburgh’s dips and peaks, all the way to the Firth of Forth and the seaside suburb of Leith. |
The famous Royal Yacht Britannia is moored at Leith, Edinburgh
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Time for lunch I had heard that Leith is one of Edinburgh’s liveliest boroughs and a great spot to indulge in a seafood lunch. This sounded perfect after a morning of exercise so I headed back down Carlton Hill to catch a bus from St Andrews Square, the central bus hub. However, I got sidetracked in the picturesque alleyways en-route… or more to the point, by the pubs concealed in them. Most of these hidden watering holes have been pulling pints for centuries and I decided I could delay my itinerary temporarily, settling in for a drink in the romantic Café Royal. I jumped aboard a bus and shortly afterwards arrived in Leith. Fortunately, most places are quite close in Edinburgh and bus fares are only ever £1 at the most, so a few coins and 20 minutes gets you pretty much everywhere. The rumours about Leith were true, and stepping off the bus initially felt like entering a quaint seaside town. On closer inspection however, I saw funky warehouses converted into residences and trendy cafes and shops lining the streets. Inventive menus graced the walls of restaurants everywhere, but it was the seafood soup and budget prices that lured me into Daniel’s Bistro. |
The National Gallery of Scotland houses many great masterpieces
Princes Street is a must for shopping
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Culture cravings By this stage I was commending myself for starting early – I still wanted to explore the city’s New Town before heading out for a night out on the town. I started the afternoon just south of the busy intersection of Princes and Hanover Streets, with a free exploration of the National Gallery of Scotland. Gracing the walls of this beautiful building are masterpieces by artists such as Cézanne, Rembrandt, Monet and Gauguin. Had I more time, I may also have delved into the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art (also free) just west of downtown, where contemporary masters such as Henry Moore and Picasso are represented, or the nearby Dean Gallery, once again free, which specialises in surrealist art. But my day was getting on. An amble through the beautiful Princes Street Gardens alongside lunching office workers, students, locals and tourists pointed me back in the direction of the New Town. Princes Street is Edinburgh’s best shopping strip, where high street chains lure punters with multi-storey interiors and bargains galore. But I wanted to purchase something more unique so I headed north, past pedestrianized Rose Street with its multitude of pubs, bars, restaurants and cafes, and explored the funky boutiques along George Street. This patch of Edinburgh is not just about retail therapy – I gazed around me at the gracious terraces and wide streets in the world’s most complete display of Georgian architecture. The New Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and from Queen Street, the start of the residential area, there are extensive gardens and an absence of high-rise buildings. This enables you to look over a collage of greenery down the natural slope of Georgian roofs, right to the firth. The 18th century architects who constructed the New Town had cleverly used the contours of the land to maximise its views. |
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'Stockbridge’s new age atmosphere
is infused with a trendy edge,
noticeable in its independent music
stores, bookshops and bars'
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Caught on the edge I wanted to explore the New Town’s limits so I caught a bus into nearby Stockbridge, just five minutes to the north. Like Leith, Stockbridge has a unique charm punctuated by legendary pubs such as the Baillie Bar and the subterranean Antiquary.The suburb’s new age atmosphere is infused with a trendy edge, noticeable in the independent music stores, bookshops and bars that pepper the streets.The backstreets of New Town may have stylish shops with stylish price tags, but I also loved exploring Stockbridge’s edgier and cheaper offerings. By now, late afternoon was turning to early evening and I needed to gear myself up for a night out.This had to start with sustenance. A quick bus ride took me back to St Andrew’s Square, from where I made the small trek to nearby Broughton Street.This strip has a range of pubs and eateries, many of them kind to a small wallet. Although the Blue Moon Café beckoned with outstanding burgers for £6-7, I opted for the bustling, friendly Basement Bar, where I chose from Thai, Mexican and other international dishes for around the same price. Over dinner I weighed up my options for the rest of the evening. I thought about heading to the western edge of the Old Town and catching an arthouse flick at the Filmhouse; the epicentre of Edinburgh’s annual film festival, before ducking into Henry’s Jazz Cellar for a live gig. In the end I decided on a bout of live blues at Whistle Binkies, followed by some serious clubbing at the nearby Liquid Room, home to some of the best club nights in Scotland. My 24 hours in Edinburgh had exhausted me, although there was still so much to see in this eclectic city. I realised I would need at least a week of similarly crammed days to really delve beneath the surface. Now for tomorrow... |
